Install drywall before siding

THEN, sinks, toilets, shower pans and tubs. As in stand by and be ready. Some things are better if the walls and floors are open, some stuff may be needed to be done after. You might have to have the plumber come twice to be more economical in your overall progression. Kitchen cabinets need to be in to have countertops done, which have to be done before the sink can be finish installed and the faucets and disposer; and dishwasher.

A possible 2 visits by the electrician as well. Laundry room is on the same time schedule as your kitchen If you are DIYing, your walls get paint and the last of the fixtures go on outlet covers, attaching wall sconces and ceiling mounted pendant lights in that order.

I did floor tiling in bathrooms at time of floor reinstall and put most of my plumbing in place at that time; plumber did most of the waste work one day then came back a couple days later to put the connections for toilet and showerpan and tub; and stubbed and capped the three sinks and the washer drain. The kitchen and bathroom finish tiling aka countertops and backsplash will be amongst the last work I do.

Hope you get an idea on the sequencing; about the only thing I didn't have to do was completely reside, and reroof. I do have a small hole to deal with where I removed a corner fireplace that was more of a hazard than it was worth Then I will be shell tight again Get the extra pail of thinset if you are playing with tile, it will take more than you can imagine.

If you get hit with a structural issue, all bets are off on budget. If you have more than one container of paint can or pail get a large enough container to open ALL of the batch into and mix it, you may have one offtint I've seen this on house painting and this will make it all the same.

If you are your own general contractor, you are THE person to run if a sub is out of something or needs something. Their time costs you money and you have to keep them going. If something goes sideways you have to fix it or find it. Be warned. And there are some things you can't put in a dumpster. Also beware of the load limits and level of debris. Closed Cell Spray Foam insulation and old construction Q. Both manufacturer's are correct for their own reasons.

Manufacturer one is correct, because without sheathing in place the foam will ooze out under each overlap of the siding creating a huge expensive mess to clean up and potentially buckled siding. Without getting to technical Manufacturer B is correct, because interior moisture passes through the wall assembly allowing moisture to build up on the back side of the siding forcing the paint bond to break loose.

In my opinion, spray foam does not belong in older home retrofits and is a buyer beware product. These older homes are not designed for air tight modern efficiency. For more about spray foam and it's hazards see this blog for numerous added links published by government and researchers in the blog posts below the story We did end up doing standard R insulation between the floor and ceiling throughout most of the basement.

We are pretty happy with the results for general sound dampening, although my wife says she can still hear movie sounds through the floor in the living room above. But I'm sure it's not as loud as it used to be. The one thing we're really pleased with is the Roxul sound deadening insulation we did in the basement bedroom ceiling.

My mother-in-law has stayed in that room for several weeks, and she said she doesn't hear us walking around in the master bedroom above which incidentally has hardwood floors. Should we remove our attic insulation Q. I know you can't afford it right now Take out as big a loan as you can and do it. If not, close it back up, imagine it never happened and sell it.

Maybe someone will do the same for you as you did with the previous owner You have plenty of work and a limited budget Don't skimp on these Most siding is not waterproof it only repels water.

What gets by the siding is to run down the drainage plan. In this day and age most sidings are installed with nail or screw guns. Not to even bring up the whole residing a house. I have been told that putting the siding on before the drywall will cause the walls to bow slightly outward.

When the drywall is then installed it will stiffen the walls and "pop" the siding out. Any truth to this? Indem Sie weiterhin auf der Website surfen bzw. Mehr erfahren. Small-Space Living. Kitchen and Dining Seating. Living Room and Entryway Seating. Sign In. Join as a Pro. Houzz TV. Houzz Research. Looking for the perfect gift? Send a Houzz Gift Card! Building a Home. Email Save Comment Featured Answer. Sturdy, I'm confused by your question. Like 2 Save.

Sort by: Oldest. Newest Oldest. Like Save. Related Discussions radiant floor installer and drywall installer at odds Q. Just a lurker here but I am confused. It seems odd to me to build walls now My previous home had hydronic heat throughout. In that house the pex tubes were installed onto the concrete base slab, the final pour was done over the tubes I believe the interior wall locations were already decided on and marked onto the base slab for pex layout.

I certainly would not be installing ceramics before building interior walls. Permanent Enclosure: As determined by Architect, permanent or temporary roofing is complete, insulated, and weather tight; exterior walls are insulated and weather tight; and all openings are closed with permanent construction or substantial temporary closures.

This defines "permanent enclosure", not "dry-in". A permanent enclosure status is past "dry-in" status in that it includes insulation and thus presumably wiring and plumbing that would have been installed prior to insulation. One could argue that a building specification requiring reaching dry-in status before certain work can proceed is intended to avoid the time, trouble, and costs of weather damage to the building or it interior components.

Can I install the vinyl siding on my garage apartment project before I install drywall. The building inspector is concerned that weight of drywall will cause siding to buckle. Thank you for the information on vinyl siding installation. I was not worried about installing the siding it was the building inspectors concern that if the siding was installed prior to hanging the drywall that the weight of the drywall would cause the siding to buckle.

Your question is worrisome - as I'm not sure what you are worried about. Exterior siding has nothing to do with interior wall finish materials, except that it would be foolish to install interior drywall, vapor barriers, or insulation in wall cavities before the building exterior is finished sufficient to be completely weather tight.

In proper construction we complete the building shell at least far enough along to make the building waterproof before we would ever consider interior work such as installing insulation and then drywall on walls and ceilings. The building may be dry - weatherproof, once the roof is on, wall sheathing is on, house-wrap is on, windows and doors are in place, and probably most exterior trim is in place; at that point the shell should be dry and weatherproof unless an idiot installed the building housewrap improperly and both exterior siding and interior work wiring, plumbing, insulation, drywall can proceed.

If housewrap is improperly installed photo at left a sharp building inspector might notice this defect and refuse to agree that the building has reached dry box status until the mistake is corrected. I suspect there is a serious miscommunication going on between you and the building code compliance inspector. As I am very limited with computers please excuse my inexperience. I thank you for all the information regarding my 2 story garage apartment project.

I have never thought it was a problem to install the vinyl siding prior to installing the dry wall. It was the building inspectors concern.

I would love to get my home sided before winter so that I could start the inside. Can building inspector force me to wait or can I move forward with my vinyl siding installation. Thank you again. Installing vinyl siding on a building exterior has nothing to do with nor does it interfere with the installation of interior drywall, except that improperly installed house wrap, flashing, sealants, or siding, windows, or doors may cause leaks into the structure and thus could be a source of drywall damage or mold.

If by building inspecto r you mean the local town or city building department's inspector: yes absolutely that person can stop a construction project. But in the case we have been discussing it sounds to me more as if there may have been some confusion about just what the problem is. In my experience, building department officials are sick and tired of people who are trying to evade proper construction codes and practices and not very friendly to people who they think are trying to do something cheap, stupid, or similar.

But excluding a few cases of bad code inspector behavior, if the inspector understands that you want to do what is correct and proper and you fully intend and want to comply with the building codes and officials, you can usually expect the building inspector to be "on your side" and even to help you out by making clear exactly what they think is required.

If then you think what the inspector has said makes no sense, you need to get the requirement clarified; on occasion the building inspector may agree to a variation from what she or he has specified if the variation in turn has been signed-off-on by a licensed building professional such as an architect or engineer. In that case they are passing responsibility for correctness and safety on to that person.

Frankly I cannot imagine that a knowledgeable building professional would want the insulation and drywall installed before the building exterior shell is dry - which would normally include the steps I described above. Installing drywall presumes that we have already installed wiring, plumbing, and building insulation first. If those were installed before the building exterior were fully sealed against the weather we are inviting a catastrophe: leaks into the building walls, wet insulation, mold, rot, insects, a disaster.

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