How to install windsor block wall

Create retaining and garden walls to 1 meter in height without reinforcement with DIY-friendly Windsor Stone blocks. With a rear lip locking system to make stacking blocks even easier, you can effortlessly build great-looking concave, convex, and curved walls! When building reinforced gravity walls, always check with your local council before construction! For straight walls use stakes and a string line. For a curved wall set the shape by laying a garden hose on the ground, then mark the curve with spray paint.

Refer to the cross-sectional diagrams for the specific levelling pad requirements per product. Remove any roots and soft earth. Level and firmly compact the soil at the bottom of the trench. Spread road base or pour concrete along the bottom of your trench. Wall heights that are over mm high must use 20MPa concrete for the levelling pad. If using road base, level with a straight edge and compact to the required height by tamping with the rear face of a block or a mechanical whacker packer.

Place blocks side-by-side at the front of the levelled and compacted road base whilst using a string line along the back of the units for alignment. For curved walls, place the blocks against the required shape formed by a garden hose and marked out with spray paint. Make sure the blocks are tightly side-butted together and true to the running edge of the finished wall. Sweep the top of the first course before laying the second. Handy Tips: Use a rubber mallet to tamp blocks into place — a metal hammer may crack them.

With the first course in place, backfill behind the blocks with a minimum mm wide mm blue metal drainage aggregate to a level slightly lower than the block height. Lay in the second block course then backfill immediately behind the wall with the drainage aggregate.

If required, place a mm drainage pipe behind the first course of blocks on the bed of drainage aggregate. Outlet the drain through the wall at every low point, at every 20m of wall length, and around the ends of the wall to your storm water system.

Simply add your subsequent block courses to a maximum height stated in the cross-sectional diagrams, which can be found in the block suppliers information brochures or engineering guide. Remember to backfill with drainage aggregate as you go, and compact it when mm deep. Sweep the top of each course before laying the next to remove all foreign particles. Ensure the locking lips at the back or top of the block fit snugly together. Backfill to the final wall height whilst being careful not to nudge any blocks out of alignment.

For extra strength also glue the top course to the second top course using construction epoxy. I fear the corners will open up in time. We are putting in a retaining wall and when finished we will be putting down pavers after for a patio.

How do we keep the base layer for the wall in place when we start digging out to lay pavers. Will the weight of wall keep it in place or will it fall out? I have a 7 foot tall large granite stone retaining wall that I would like to cut down to around 3 feet. How do I do this? What kind of company would I hire?

I have a block retaining wall slightly leaning. This wall is about 5 ft high but the dirt behind it is actually only about 3. Could the 4 extra rows actually pulling the wall forward? If I remove them would the wall be more stable? The top 4 rows are not serving any purpose. I live in maine. I was thinking of removing cement at ground level and building a retaining wall on top of the frost wall, I would love to run it past the huge boulders, but there is no frost walls there. I would think they have to go.

Where do I find those kind of blocks today? What a wonderful discovery your website has been for a retiree like me! Is it feasible? Many thanks. I need to build a straight retaining wall 7 foot high. I want to build a rectangular retaining block wall on the side of a garage.

At the front corner there is asphalt from the driveway extending about six inches where the row of blocks should be at the corner of the garage, and the asphalt is sloped down away from the garage approx. The rest of the retaining wall area is dirt and a trench can be dug.

Can I level this small section of asphalt with a bag of asphalt hole repair mix and place the blocks on that? Then dig the trench depth to meet the blocks on the asphalt since that would have to be the starting point. If so what would I put between the blocks and the asphalt to secure them. If I remove a large boxwood plant I can leave the asphalt alone and set the blocks back 8 inches or so from the corner of the garage in a trench.

Want to replace old retaining wall which is five courses high do I have to replace the bottom row or can I just stack new block on top of old bottom row? I am still attempting to fix my own home, I just turned 58 years young yesterday.

M question is this. HELP…do I take the stones down, remove the soil that is there, or the better part of i and then place plastic sheeting between the pavers and the dirt to help stop the soil run off.? I hope you can follow what i mean. It is NOT a large area..

I can send pics if it will help. Would using some mortor or something between the stones help the run off? It is a mixture of pavers and stones…again, not my design lolSO good to see the same people are still around!! Deb Tison. I would like to know where we could purchase this type, color and style of retaining wall? The type in the second picture down.

Thanks Tracy. I am building 4 foot high retaining wall using interlocking blocks and struggling with the base. I dont know what material I need to use. Some places Lowes say to use paver base. Other people say to use road base, or compacting gravel.

I dont want to buy the bags of paver base at lowes because it costs more than going to a quarry. Is road base ok to use then put 1 inch of this paver sand on top of that? Any information would be appreciated. Will this destroy my retaining wall? My house is on the downslope of a hill and there is a wide driveway below the retaining wall so there is not place to take the piping to daylight.

Or is this overkill. Of course I will use gravel , geofabric and pipes for back fill and sink one blobk deep. These blocks are like besser blocks except that the front is roughened to show chocolate colored face. They clip into one another. I was thinking of using masonry glue right from the first block on concrete to the top level. I was thinking road base the builders glue as we do not want to bury 1 block for cost reasons.

We are building a small — inches high — retaining wall. I know you suggest burying one brick, but is this required or can the bricks with the lip on the back serve as anchors in the dirt? Does the first brick have to be buried at all? To make it level some of the bricks were buried about 1 inch.

These were stackable pavestone bricks with the lip on the back. The capstones were to be liquid nailed to the previous level.

This man is extremely temperamental and hard to work with. He has had two hired handymen walk off the job of fixing his back door, a one day job according to my boss.

Is there a way to salvage this job without feeling like we are being taken advantage of? Okay, so what do you suggest? They were sold at Lowes at one time, but are no longer available. Is there another place to find these 8-in x 3-in retaining wall blocks?

My guy put my retainer blocks and he face it bach and the round side is facing the back and concave side in the front. We want to build a two foot tall retaining wall 4. We have clay soils in Texas. Any concerns with upsetting out footings?

We want to do this to shorten the slope from our home. Hello can you help please…. I need to build a retaining wall. I am laying a patio and have found to keep it level I end up with a mm drop at the end of the patio. The patio blocks will be laid on sand. Trouble is I have never built a retaining wall. Do you have any advice for me. Thanks in advance. Outside the overhang or inside? If I place it outside the drip edge will the water build up behind the block and freeze in Minnesota and push the block out?

Or do you place it right under the drip edge so the rain runoff spills onto the block,. I am looking to build stack wall no mortar and want guidelines to do it. Your retaining wall design will determine how you mark the area. To mark a freeform layout, use a rope or hose to outline the shape. Then use a shovel to mark the outline.

For straight lines, mark the entire bed area with stakes, string and marking paint. Am putting in a retaining wall along a pond. The wall above ground level will be approximately 2 feet tall. Is a drainage pipe necessary behind a wall of that height, whose base will be below the water level of the pond? My retaining of wood has rotted and the wall was falling. I had local company supply large stone blocks.

They dug down to lay the first blocks on soil. They put drainage stone behind the wall with a perforated pipe. The wall is starting to lean in after the 6 foot height.

They are to take up the blocks above 6 feet and lay a geo blanket which looks like snow fencing and put the stone back down and fill the drainage stone over the blanket behind the wall. They were told that this will keep the upper blocks from moving. Specifications may change without notice. Please visit your dealer for color options, block dimensions and additional information. Lightweight and easy to handle, the Aspen Stone retaining wall system is the perfect choice for walls up to 2 feet high.

Perfect for planter rings, raised gardens, terraces, this product also features our patented rear-lip locator for quick and easy installation. Project Applications Planters Tree Rings. Where to Buy. Estimate Now. System Performance Max.